Hanoi for Kids


[Downloads: May’s Suggested Itinerary for Hanoi]
Currency Exchange at time of travel 20,000VND = SGD1.00

2018 hasn’t quite started and my husband told me he will be away for a business trip. I took up his offer to tag along to Hanoi with the kids. What will this make? A Semi-Solo-Parenting Holiday. Oh that’s fine by me really. At least the children and I get to see daddy by nightfall.

A quick research on Hanoi and I found a couple of great places to go that would keep the children happy for our five day four night itinerary. We take a little longer than usual on our holidays because Ewan and Faye still nap. Oh it’s nice to take it slow too.

This is Ewan's third visit to Hanoi and Faye's first.


There are a few big tips about Vietnam that every family should know:
1. Take an Uber car. I was going out on travels on my own with the children and for safety reasons, the hotel recommended me to take Uber over flagged down taxis. Apparently, it is cheaper than Grab too. A 30 minute ride would cost a mere S$6.
2. Taxis Go By Meter. Do not worry if you are intending to flag down a taxi. They go by meter and a 15 minute ride would probably cost you only S$1.50! Only problem I had been hearing about is taking a reliable taxi company [pictures of the two recommended taxi company] to avoid taxi scams.
3. Cyclos in the Old Quarter. Although the price could go down to more than half, think about what you can give and what the rider would benefit from the extra income. A S$9 ride would be considered a rip off.
4. Beware of Pick-Pockets. I heard a lot of robbery issues in Hanoi but we experienced none whatsoever. Nevertheless, always be vigilant and have your bags carried in front.
5. Vietnamese are kind-hearted and approachable. They are kind by nature and have the tendency to strike up a conversation when you least expected. Observe your surroundings and engage if you deem fit. Our interactions with them had been nothing short of pleasant.
6. Pay for Tourist Cameras. Most attractions require tourists to pay for the professinal cameras they bring in at a small fee of S$1 to S$3. If you are photographing the site with your mobile phone, there is no need to pay. It is all based on trust. No one will come running after you to check if you bought a Tourist Camera ticket in the museum but it is stated up front at the ticketing office that this is a requirement.

HAVING FUN WITH KIDS IN HANOI
ONE
VISIT THE TRAIN TRACKS
Locate: a small street between Le Duan and Kham Thien
Train Running Times: 1530 hrs and 1900 hrs
Tip: Get your car to drop you at the end of Kham Thien where it meets Le Duan

We have tracks in Singapore that we’ve walked on before. So what’s the hype about this one in Hanoi that I’ve put on the itinerary?

This train track runs through the homes of the locals. It is not a dysfunctional train track like what we have in Singapore but one that is live. It runs only on two timings daily, 1530 hours and 1900 hours. I decided to visit it with the kids outside these timings. Firstly, the afternoon slot is their nap time and night slot would be too dark. Secondly, I will be out there with the kids alone. I didn’t want to risk accidents with a running train that has no stopping. There will be other opportunities when daddy is around.

The homes of these Vietnamese are extremely near the train track. As soon as they step foot out of their main doors, they will be greeted by a pavement and then the train track. This pavement is not only for walking, you will find residents hanging their laundry, washing dishes and it is even a pavement for motorbikes!

I couldn’t even believe it was a functional train track! There were broken doors and wooden crates on the track too! Oh but the kids had fun walking on it. They had fun playing with other kids in the hood too who came out to cautiously watch these tourists invading in their privacy. Most likely wondering, what it was that attracted so many people to a train track. However, they were more than welcoming.








Halfway through our short exploration, Faye announced her need to relief herself. I was not prepared for that obviously! Where in the world will I find a toilet? Oh okay. There were toilets in every home along the tracks or we could probably do it on the track itself.

A teenage girl had been quietly watching us [and her brother who was trying to play with the kids]. I approached her to ask if there was a toilet anywhere that we could use. She tried conversing with us in her half-past six English and pointed on the tracks. Uh Huh! So she thinks we should do it there too *haha* As soon as she said that, she changed her mind and offered her toilet to us. I must be really brave to bring Faye in but a quick look inside and I felt safe enough to take up her suggestion. The toilet is just beside her main door leading to the train tracks. We would be in and out in 15 seconds flat.

We continued walking the rest of our way on the tracks until the sun went down. Ewan and Faye were picking up stones and hopping off tracks in between my “OK! Look here! Smile!”. Then a man on a motorbike stopped next to us. It was getting dark and I was getting wary of strangers; especially men.

He said, “Don’t use hands to pick up things. You know serringe? Later poke!”

What he was trying to warn us was that people throw lots of rubbish on the tracks and there might a a used syringe in the midst. He insisted we followed him home to have their hands washed. I followed because what kind hospitality! But stopped short at his house when I realised his toilet was way back into his home unlike the school girl’s toilet. I thanked him for his kindness and explained we shouldn’t head in because I should take care of our safety.

Sensing I was afraid, he got his wife to bring a pail of water for the children instead. Ewan and Faye had their hands washed by the tracks! He was heading on to an appointment but stopped just to make sure my kids had their hands washed. I appreciate such genuine people who haven’t forgotten the importance of humanity and trust.


TWO
THE VIETNAM MILITARY HISTORY MUSEUM
Cost: 40,000VND/Adult Ticket [S$2]
Time: Tues to Thurs, Sat & Sun 0800 to 1130 hrs and 1300 to 1630 hrs
Locate: 28A Điện Biên Phủ - Ba Đình - Hà Nội.
Web

Set up on the 17th of July 1956, it is one of seven national museums in Vietnam. When I first did my research on Where To Go, this museum was not highly recommended. Nobody did say it was no good but tourists visited the other more popular museums instead.

I had only the kids in mind for this trip. Okay, I shan’t lie. It was also for myself - for photography opportunities. I found this place full of depth and life for great photos! Besides, the kids would probably be more excited to see real war planes and tanks as opposed to aisles after aisles of boring museum artefacts. This was our first stop early Thursday morning!

It took us 30 minutes to get there and when we arrived, Ewan said, “Wow! Daddy would be so happy to be here!” I actually asked daddy if he would like to join us on this trip and if he did, we will shelf this for the weekend when he didn’t have to work. But he told us to go ahead.

This museum houses an extensive collection of weaponry that was used during Vietnam’s war. Unforgettable attractions include the wreckage of an American B-53 bomber, an M107 self-propelled gun and a military tank that ploughed through the gates of Saigon’s Presidential Palace, ending the Vietnam War in 1975.

The children made me read every single plaque in front of the war vehicles. I did’t understand some of them but they still felt the need to listen to its story. I was more than happy to oblige. We pretended to load canon balls in the canons and bombed the enemies! We walked around the grounds looking at at old weaponries and spent an hour exploring the grounds of the museum before leaving in search of the famous TOY STREET in Old Quarter.



THREE
TOY STREET IN OLD QUARTER
Locate: Luong Van Can

There are many streets in the Old Quarter and each street features a certain shopping category. It’s like a department store with different levels of shopping dedicated only for Fragrances, Women, Men, Children and Home. I zeroed into the Toy Street, just for the sake of Ewan and Faye.

There was no intention of purchasing anything during this window-shopping activity. They know that they will get new presents only on their Birthdays or Christmas. Since these occasions were both over, this visit to the Toy Street was purely for fun.

I told them about Toy Street as soon as we arrived in Hanoi. It was meant as a treat for good behaviour and what a bribe it became whenever they threw a tantrum, “No Toy Street if you can’t finish your food !”

When we arrived, the kids were over the moon! They saw so many toys being displayed on the streets that they couldn’t decide which shop to walk into first! Oh they were ecstatic. They scrutinised every toy and so did I. They were all pirated goods. Lego was Lepin, Peppa had red eyes and Elsa looked really weird. Still, the kids had lots of fun there, telling me what they wanted for Christmas. It was like walking in and out of Toys R Us without buying anything [that’s our usual activity in a shopping mall if the kids had been good]. Only difference was, in this country, the toys were all displayed along the streets rather than in a department store.



FOUR
CYCLO
I had to put this on the kids’ bucket list. It’s amazing how simple their list can be! Just a ride in a rickshaw-like vehicle would leave the deepest impression in their lives.

Although we could walk to our lunch venue in nine minutes, I decided not to torture my injured toe, bad back and a newly incurred injury on the right ball of my foot. I flagged down a Cyclo and while I was bargaining, Ewan went, “Yippee!” and climbed his way up onto his ride. Well of course Faye followed suit.

With that, it doesn’t seem like I could bargain much can I? Brought down a S$5 ride to S$3. What could have been just a S$0.50 ride I think? Ahhh but these riders are here in the Old Quarter just to earn the money of tourists.

The income of these riders are low and they would offer a starting price of 150,000 Vietnamese dong for a 10 minute ride. It may sound like a lot but that is only about S$7. Comparing to a 30 minute UberX ride of about the same price, you may feel like you were being ripped off! Well you certainly are! So go with your heart and give the right amount that you think you could part with.

It isn’t the safest ride if you viewed it with caution. Passengers sit in front [two max or two kids and one adult like us] while the rider cycles behind you. If there was any kind of accident, you can imagine who gets the wrath first. Still, certain risks are small enough to take for a picturesque tourist ride around Old Quarter. Well, at least the risk of getting hit in a Cyclo is lesser than that of crossing the road in busy Hanoi!



FIVE

CAFE NOLA
Locate: 89 Pho Ma May, Hanoi, Vietnam

I shan’t lie. This was more for me. However, I am putting this on the list of Hanoi for Kids because Ewan and Faye did enjoy themselves here on this rooftop escapade. It's like stepping into a vintage Fairy Tale storybook!

Mary Poppins?

The entrance to Cafe Nola was so obscure that when our Cyclo rider dropped us, I asked, “Where is Cafe Nola?”

He had to direct my eyes to the sign which read CAFE NOLA. Eclectic!

I led the kids into a dark and narrow corridor into a reception. There sat a Vietnamese lady who kept smiling at us. She had all intention to let us find our way around because she offered no help at all. However, she did stand from her desk, walked towards us and touched Faye on her cheeks. She gave us the opportunity to explore her premise on our own.

I didn’t even know what that reception was about really. It looked like an art gallery or spa or hmmm a hostel maybe? It doesn't look like it was part of Cafe Nola at all.

I followed the sign upwards towards Cafe Nola and just kept climbing. I recall from the pictures I saw during research that Cafe Nola was all about dining on a rooftop with lots of brightly-coloured umbrellas hanging atop. It should be right up there!

The steps were steep and the kids were adventurous. We went three stories high to be disappointed by broken umbrellas hanging overhead. This wasn’t what was promised on the Internet?

Ah! There was a three and a half story! A section I missed because I had my back towards it. It was like a mezzanine for level three. The dining room there was beautiful! Just as I had envisioned it to be. I got down to work photographing my subjects there at the open rooftop!

We sat down for lunch but it looked too deserted. There were no other diners nor wait staff. Just a lone cat which I hoped will find its way away from us. I wondered out loud, “Hmmm… how do I order food? Is this cafe even open?” Well, even if it wasn’t, I was happy to arrive there just for some photo opportunities.

And just then, someone came up to attend to us. He took our orders and left us alone the whole while to our own up on the roof! So serene and such a vintage place to chill. I could see other rooftops hanging their laundry out. So while I laughed with the kids at their funny jokes, I shushed them up a lot too. In case we intrude on other people's privacy!

Loving this peaceful private rooftop respite from the traffic downstairs. We stayed there for two full hours until daddy came to pick us up!

Oh! That reception on the ground floor? That was Cafe Nola’s reception. They owned all three floors and patrons can sit indoors in their living room for drinks as well. The place is dressed like a home with sofas, furniture and a piano.



SIX
THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE
Cost: 100,000VND/Adult Ticket [S$5] | Children under 1.2m: 60,000VND/ticket [S$3]
Tourist Camera: 20,000VND [S$1]
Winter Daily: 1500 hrs, 1610 hrs, 1720 hrs, 1830 hrs, 2000 hrs, 2115 hrs
Summer Daily: 1610 hrs, 1720 hrs, 1830 hrs, 2000 hrs
Sunday Morning: 0930 hrs
Locate: [Old Quarter] 57b Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Web | Book Online

Seems like this is a very popular attraction amongst tourists, old and young. Situated at the start of Old Quarter, an old-fashion box office sits with a middle-aged lady behind the counter marking off seats available for that show.

We were told it was not going to be full that evening and made no attempt to book online. Meyer was off from work that night and we planned to meet for a show after our respective activities. On arrival, there were so many tour buses waiting along the street with a long line of theatre-goers hoping to get tickets for the same time slot we were going for! Crossing our fingers for good seats [because I read it’s best to get front row seats for kids lest they can’t see a thing], we requested for the front row. I cannot tell if she heard my request because there was no acknowledgement, we walked up the stairs with our tickets in hand.

There was another lady standing on top of the steps selling more tickets. She approached me and said, “Would you like to buy a ticket for your camera?" I naturally said no because why should I be paying to photograph what I had already paid for?

As I walked into the theatre and I thought about it. Will I want to photograph the experience? I asked Meyer what he thought and he replied, "It's only just one dollar you know?" Okay. I overthink. I went out to pay for that ticket to allow my camera to enter legally into the theatre.

Walking to our seat, we were given the second row. As I observed, she had placed families with young children and elderly in the first two rows! I took a quick glance at the rest of the theatre and it was full house! Aren't we lucky to get seats for a 1830 hours show? We started queuing for tickets only 15 minutes before show commencement.

The show is commentated in Vietnamese and so, tourists wouldn't understand a thing. But the fact that puppetry is being showcased in water is a novelty in itself to give this unique cultural attraction a visit. It had my children's eyes peeled to the stage without any fidgeting! In fact, Faye found its intriguing, she stood all 50 minutes into the show.

There were puppet ducklings, peacocks, fire-breathing dragons and a tiger cub that swam in the river and climbed a tree! There were certain comical acts that got Ewan laughing even though he didn't understand the language.

However, I would highly recommend giving Thang Long Water Puppet a miss at the original theatre there in Old Quarter. We later found out that they run shows at an outdoor venue in the Museum of Ethonology, which was a lot more traditional and authentic! Go for that instead!



SEVEN
VIETNAM MUSEUM OF ETHONOLOGY
Cost: 40,000VND/Adult Ticket [S$2] | Children aged 6 to 18: 10,000VND/ticket [S$0.50] | Free for Children below 6 years old
Tourist Camera: 50,000VND [S$3]
Opens: Daily 0830 to 1730 hrs | Closed on Mondays
Locate: Nguyễn Văn Huyên Road, Cầu Giấy District, Hà Nội
Web

I did not put this museum in the itinerary just because I hadn't researched well enough on it. Thanks to many people who suggested we went because we would have missed a great deal about the different architectural styles of houses Vietnamese lived in! Ewan and Faye had such a good time exploring these homes and they even have a favourite of their own.

There is an indoor and outdoor section to this museum but we only spent time doing the outdoors. As I walked them through these homes, I remind them of how fortunate they are. These rooms were dark, the beds were hard. There was no heater of any sort and it can get really cold in some of these homes with no insulation.

We even spent some time in a particular house playing pretend. The children asked us what we would like to have for lunch and they went about in the kitchen cooking our meals! I thought that was pretty cool! Especially when their old-boned parents needed a break from all those walking.



As we walked, we stumbled upon a big sign in the outdoors "Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre"! Oh my! It's a lot more beautiful here! It is traditional, authentic and beautifully set up with seats that were so inviting. It holds eight daily shows in its premise too at 1000 hrs, 1115 hrs, 1400 hrs, 1515 hrs, 1615 hrs, 1715 hrs, 1915 hrs and 2015 hrs! The cost? It is technically the same as the ticket price at the main theatre.

Note: Although the adult price at the museum states 90,000VND [which is 10,000VND cheaper than the main theatre], the child price at the museum is 10,000VND more expensive at the museum. It totals up to the same amount if you are going as a family.    




EIGHT
THU LE PARK AND ZOO
Cost: Free to Enter
Zoo Cost: 10,000VND/ticket [S$0.50] | Children under 1.3m: 5,000VND/ticket [S$0.30]
Winter Daily: 0700 to 1700 hrs
Summer Daily: 0700 to 1730 hrs
Locate: Thu Le, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi, Vietname

The park is free to enter but if you are intending to visit the Hanoi Zoo inside the park, there is a price to pay. The price is so insignificant, I suggest you just pay for it. Never know if the kids decide to want a quick walk in the zoo!

Going to Thu Le Park, I had only two things in mind:
1. To go on a Swan Paddle Boat Ride on the lake
2. Spend money at the local Amusement Park

There was no intention to visit the zoo because well, we have one of the best zoos in Southeast Asia!

1. SWAN PADDLE BOAT RIDE
Cost: 40,000VND [S$2] for a two-seater boat | 60,000VND [S$3] for a four-seater boat
Duration: 20 minutes

I don't know if this was more for me or for the kids. I had been trying to factor in a Swan Paddle Boat Ride in a lake in Italy and Macau in our previous travels but time didn't allow us to. Upon hearing the availability of Swan Boats in Hanoi, I had to try to materialise this dream! Maybe it's really for me. I remember going on a Swan boat ride with my parents as a child and I wanted to relive that.

I wanted Ewan and Faye to experience it too.



2. AMUSEMENT PARK
Cost: 20,000VND [S$1] per child per ride

It was that cheap! To go on a bumper car ride, a carousel, a swinging chair, a train ride, a helicopter or hot-air balloon ride, it costs only S$1 per child per ride! I gave them no restrictions at all and went all out with it. It is cheaper than some of those kiddy rides in our shopping malls!

My children's faces lit up when they heard, UNLIMITED PLAY! I mean look. I don't even pleasure them with a dollar kiddy rides in our mall.

While they played, I had a fantastic time photographing them.


There on the other side of the lake, we noticed some huge balloon balls spinning in the water. The children pulled us to it and wanted in! Oh my little hamster kids. It was so funny to watch them tumble in there. While Ewan was doing it right, moving the ball like a hamster, Faye was in there tumbling as if she was in a washing machine!

I pity her because she looked like she was being trashed in there but all I heard was laughters. She was having a ball of a time in her "washing machine".

This too, cost only S$1 per child! Faye opted to go for a second round on her own while Ewan ran back for the bumper car. Because it was a quiet morning, there was no limit to time. The bumper car operator just let him go round and round and round and round while he sat there playing his game on his iPhone. Talking about making your money worth the while!



Downloadables 
May's Suggested Itinerary for Hanoi

Our little Travel companions 
January 2018 - Ewan at 5 years old and Faye at 3 years old 

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